St. Lucia: Overview

The 2,600-foot twin peaks of the Pitons on Saint Lucia’s southwest coast are among the most beautiful sights in the Caribbean. They soar above picturesque fishing villages, stunning beaches, bubbling sulphur springs, towering waterfalls and a dense rain forest. Hidden on the hills, among the wild, lush greenery, are world-class resorts, ultra-romantic inns and cozy lodges.

Still untamed and relatively unknown as a tourist destination, Saint Lucia is one of the Windward Islands of the Lesser Antilles. It sits midway down the Eastern Caribbean chain between Martinique and Saint Vincent, north of Barbados. From one end to the other, Saint Lucia measures only 27 miles long, and is 14 miles across its widest section. One main road twists down the entire west coast, swings around the southern tip, then heads north up the eastern shoreline, making most of the 238-square-mile pear-shaped island easily accessible. Occasionally, this loop road branches off across mountains and cuts through the dense rain forest to remote sites, but it’s virtually impossible to get lost.

Most of the population lives in the north around Castries, the contemporary capital and main port. Inland, the mountainous land is covered by a thick jungle- like rain forest that gives way to sprawling banana plantations. The gorgeous southern coast is sparsely populated and is dominated by the volcanic Pitons that rise straight up out of the ocean.

Since the early 1990s tourism has slowly, but decisively, taken a firm hold on the island. Luxury resorts and first-rate marinas line much of the coast, but Saint Lucia has learned from its neighbors that overdevelo pment can be worse than no development. High-rise hotels are not permitted, eco-tourism is encouraged, and most natural resources are strictly protected.

Castries is the bustling modern capital and main seaport. Fires have destroyed many historic sites, but a few landmarks and attractive colonial buildings remain. Morne Fortuné, the hill of good fortune, rises over the south side of the city, offering panoramic views of the town and harbor. The town of Soufrière is quite a contrast to Castries. It is a sleepy fishing village, engagingly out of step with modern times, that sits on the southwestern coast in a dormant volcanic crater.

Mount Soufrière, a dormant volcano near the town of Soufrière, is called the “drive-in volcano” because it is actually possible to drive a vehicle into the crater. Natural sulfur springs that flow there are rumored to have therapeutic properties, and people often bathe in the waters. Farther south, the twin peaks of the Pitons loom on the horizon, dwarfing everything around them. Gros Piton is shorter, but wider, and rises to 2,460 feet. The leaner Petit Piton stands 2,619 feet above sea level. Vieux Fort, at the southernmost point of the island, is one of the oldest settlements. Miles of palm-lined white-sand beaches extend along the coast just outside the colonial town.

North of Castries, well-known Rodney Bay sits in a protected lagoon. The 83-acre man-made harbor is the largest and best-equipped marina south of Saint Thomas, and serves as host to many boating events. It is also a popular shopping area and the site of some of the island’s best restaurants.

Off the southern coast, the Maria Islands form a nature reserve and bird sanctuary that protects two indigenous species found nowhere else in the world: the innocuous Couresse grass snake and the Maria Islands ground lizard. The small Frigate Islands, off the Atlantic coast, are home to the magnificient frigate bird and are a favorite hangout for nature lovers and wildlife photographers.

Sand on Saint Lucian beaches ranges from jet-black to pristine white, and the island has a plethora of breathtakingly beautiful sites. Choc Bay is a long, sandy stretch shaded by coconut palms along the northwestern coast. Its calm waters attract swimmers from the hotels located near Castries. Marigot Bay, midway down the Caribbean coast, is a dream come true. It’s secluded, surrounded on three sides by steep hills and shaded by swaying palms. Beaches don’t come any better than this.

Pigeon Island National Park, reached by a causeway from the island, draws curious explorers. Indians lived there before it became a hideout for pirates, then a British military base. Now, it’s a recreation area with picnic sites and sandy beaches.

Anse des Pitons lies in a dramatic location between the Pitons. Anse Couchon, a striking black-sand beach, must be reached by boat, and is therefore a famous retreat for romantic couples. Cas en Bas is the best beach for windsurfing, and divers find schools of colorful fish near Anse Chastanet.

Friday nights are for partying, and you’ll want to join the fun at the weekly jump up at Gros Islet. Shortly after sunset, the streets are closed to traffic, bands set up their equipment on makeshift stages, and cooks fire up the barbecue grills on their front lawns. Locals show up to do some serious partying, and visitors soon feel right at home. The music continues during the week as hotels and clubs feature steel bands, jazz groups and zouk musicians (see page 50 for descriptions of all kinds of Caribbean music).

Shoppers will find plenty of attractive buys at stores, galleries and boutiques around Castries. Local arts and crafts, as well as a tempting selection of fresh herbs and spices, draw browsers into the Castries Market. Tourists also like the modern facilities at Pointe Seraphine, a large Spanish-style mall and duty-free shopping complex not far from the city.

Saint Lucia has a broad selection of exciting activities for every type of vacationer. Watersports are popular, and the large hotels have equipment for windsurfing, waterskiing and boating. Quick-drop coastlines and lovely reefs offer excellent snorkeling and scuba diving. The rain forest preserves in the mountainous interior feature some of the best hiking and birdwatching in the Caribbean. In addition, the island has top facilities for golf, tennis, sailing and horseback riding.