Indian Chief Travel Guides

Sightseeing in Granada

The Alhambra

The crowning jewel of Granada, the Alhambra Castle comprises lush gardens, ornate fountains and lavish palaces amid scarred fortifications and scurrying tourists. In the shadows of the Sierra Nevadas, it sits atop a hill overlooking the city, the legacy of two distinct cultures, a monument to Spain’s multi-ethnic origins and its mono-cultural destiny.

The earliest construction was begun for military reasons in the ninth century when the first kings of Granada, the Zirites, had their castles and palaces on the hill of the Albaicín across from the early Alhambra. It wasn’t until 1238, under the control and expansion of the Nasrites, that the Alhambra began to take shape as a residence of kings. By the end of their rule, the Alhambra would include the alcazaba (fortress), alcazar (palace) and a medina (small city).

Under this dynasty, Muhammad Al-Ahmar, the Alhambra’s founder, began work on the restoration of the old fortress, which his son, Muhammed II, completed after his death. The palaces, called Casa Real Vieja (Old Royal House or Palace), date to the 14th century and are the work of two powerful kings, Yusuf I and Muhammed V. The former oversaw construction of the Cuarto de Comares (Chamber of Comares), the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice), the baths and some of its towers. His son, Muhammed V, added some additional rooms and fortifications, and further beautified the palaces with the Cuarto de los Leones (Chamber of the Lions).

When the Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabel, conquered the city in 1492, the Alhambra became a Christian court. Numerous structures were built for prominent citizens, as well as military garrisons, a church and a Franciscan monastery. Emperor Charles V made the most controversial alterations, including building the palace that bears his name in the center of the compound. Other Austrian kings left more subtle impressions on the Alhambra.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the Alhambra fell into neglect, its salons turned to dung heaps, its taverns overrun by thieves and beggars. During this period the American writer Washington Irving took up residence in the decrepit castle. His experiences and numerous legends surrounding the Alhambra would later be immortalized in his book, Tales From the Alhambra. Another writer, Richard Ford, captured this sad period of the Alhambra’s existence poignantly when he wrote, “Thus bats defile abandoned castles, and the reality of Spanish criminals and beggars destroy the illusion of this fairy palace of the Moors.”

Napoleon’s troops, who controlled Granada from 1808-1812, converted the palaces of the Alhambra into barracks and ultimately left two of the towers, the Torre de Siete Suelos and the Torre de Agua, in ruins. The problems continued until the Alhambra was declared a national monument in 1870. As an interesting side note, the Koran supports the Muslim ideal that heaven is a garden nourished by running water. Some point to this in reasoning that the Alhambra was an Arabic attempt to create heaven on earth. These days the Alhambra is host to nearly 8,000 visitors a day. It is looked over and cared for religiously and has been restored to a reasonable semblance of its former glory.

The Alcazaba

Built upon the ruins of a ninth-century castle, the Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra. At the entrance is the cheery Jardin de los Adarves, also called the Jardin de los Poeta, which looks out on the Torres Bermejas. The walled enclosure is flanked by two towers, the Homenaje and the Quebrada, and contains the elaborate interior of the Torre de las Armas and the magnificent Torre de la Vela, the tallest tower. This tower offers the best vantage point to look out over the city and houses a bell rung on special occasions by young girls hoping to ward off spinsterhood – nowadays a fairly far-fetched idea.

La Casa Real (The Royal House or Palace)

To distinguish these Nasrite alcazars (palaces) with their courts and surrounding structures from the Christian buildings of the Alhambra, La Casa Real is often referred to as the Casa Real Vieja (Old Royal House). In keeping with Muslim tradition, reception salons and the royal apartments known as the Chamber of the Lions accompany the palaces. These once and again luxurious chambers are the work of Muhammed V, and display the full talents of Granada’s Muslim artists. Inside, the chamber has an almost tranquilizing effect, so delicate is its architectural detail.

Cuarto de los Leones

The Court of the Lions, right, displays a harmonious merging of East and West styling as its columns surround a 12-sided marble fountain resting on the backs of 12 lions that feed water throughout the courtyard. Water was seen as a sign of prosperity and power and is an essential decorative element throughout the palaces. Four large halls border the courtyard. Entering from the Court of the Myrtles is the Sala de los Mozarabes, whose name is allegedly derived from the three stalactite arches forming the entrance to the Court of the Lions. Opposite, the Sala de Abencerrajes is decorated with ornamental knots called lazo and cast in light by 16 intricate fretwork windows. The Sala de los Reyes on the east is divided into three sections, each corresponding with picturesque porticos separated by double arches of mozarabes (stalactites). The Sala de las Dos Hermanas north of the court earns its name from two large marble stones flanking the central fountain and spout. Adjoining it is the Sala de los Ajimeces, its two balconies overlooking the Garden of Daraxa on either side of the Mirador de Daraxa, a bedroom of the Sultana in the style of a bay window. From here you enter the Peinador de la Reina, also known as the Tocador, an open gallery and small tower designed as the residence of the Empress Isabel.

Church of St Mary

Other remnants of the Christian occupation include the Church of St Mary, built upon the site of the former royal mosque, and a parador, the Monastery of St Francis, erected on an Arab palace. Here Ferdinand and Isabella were temporarily entombed before being moved to their permanent resting place in the Capilla Real. The Palace of Carlos V, otherwise known as the Casa Real Nueva, was erected as an indulgent residence to mirror the palace of the defeated Muslims. Pedro Machuca, a former student of Michelangelo, undertook construction in 1526. The palace is roughly a square with two inner areas, one in Tuscan style, and another with Ionic pillars.

Generalife

The name Generalife translates as “garden of paradise.” Its intricate gardens and patios were given over to the Venegas family after the Catholic monarchs conquered the city. A long promenade leads first to the Patio de la Acequia, the most vibrant aspect of the Alhambra complex. Surrounding it is the northern portico called the Mirador, framed by five elegant arches and three marble arches to the rear. On the western side is a gallery of 18 arches, and through the north portico is the Patio de los Cipreses, centered by an undulating pool. Small ponds are scattered among the oleanders and myrtles. Following a stone staircase you will discover the Upper Gardens, formerly olive groves which today sports modern gardens, an esplanade and the most unusual stairway lined by cascading waterfalls. Follow it past an unattractive, multi-storied building to the open-air stage where the International Festival of Music and Dance is held each year.

Museums

he Alhambra Museum, inside the Alhambra grounds, is open Tues.-Sat. 9:30 am-2:30 pm. The Museum of Fine Arts occupies the second floor of the 16th-century Palace Carlos V next to the Alhambra. It contains the Granadian art of Fray Sanchez Cota, Pedro de Mena and Alonso Cano.