Fort-de-France

Fort-de-France is unlike any other capital city in the Caribbean. The latest fashions from Paris hang in store windows, baguettes poke out of shopping bags, business is conducted in pure mother-country French and menus posted in restaurant windows promise haute cuisine. Yet, this French package is wrapped in tropical colors and tied with a soft, spice-scented Créole cord.

Place de la Savane

Most of the activity centers around Place de la Savane, the central park of Fort-de-France and the ideal starting point for a city tour. The 12.5-acre flower-filled square is located across Boulevard Alfassa from the ferry docks at the far end of Baie des Flamands. The park has become a bit rundown recently and disreputable groups hang out there at night. Nevertheless, it is a perfectly safe and pleasant place to visit during the day. Looking back at the city from a bench under one of the royal palm trees, you will be struck by the contradiction of tropical beauty and urban frenzy.

La Savane is surrounded by congested roads and sidewalk vendors, but the park itself is an oasis of green calm. On the north side, a beheaded white-marble statue of Empress Josephine stands holding a locket or medal that reveals a likeness of Napoleon Bonaparte. Unknown islanders decapitated the statue in 1991 during a display of scorn for the former French empress who was born on Martinique. It is thought that radicals were protesting either the island’s dependence on France or Josephine’s legendary role in prolonging slavery on the island to benefit her family plantation. Either way, the statue hasn’t been repaired, which sends a clearer message than the vandalism itself.

On the northwest corner of the park an open-air market sells T-shirts, batik clothing, swimsuits and handmade crafts. Nearby, you’ll see a statue of Martinique’s French founder, Pierre Bélain d’Esnambuc. Follow the walkway deeper into the park to find the Monument aux Morts that honors islanders who fought for France in both World Wars.

Fort Saint-Louis

South of La Savane, across Boulevard Chevalier Sainte-Marthe, Fort Saint-Louis stands on the waterfront where Fort Royal was built to defend the first settlers in 1638. The military still uses the fort, but you can take a 45-minute guided tour,

Schoelcher Library

Across La Savane near the northeast corner, at the intersection of Rue de la Liberté and Avenue des Caraïbes is the magnificent Bibliothèque Schoelcher. This ornate domed building was designed by Henri Picq (Pick) and built in Paris at the same time as Gustave Eiffel’s tower was being built for the 1889 World Fair.

Some say the charming mixed-style edifice was meant to house Martinique’s exhibition at the fair. Others claim it was built to house 10,000 books donated to Martinique by French politician Victor Schoelcher who led the campaign to abolish slavery on the island. Either way, the structure was built in Paris and then dismantled and sent in pieces to Martinique in 1893.

Today, the reassembled library stands majestically as a tribute to freedom and education. You can visit the library, which is perhaps the most beautiful building in Fort-de-France, and wander among the 200,000 books as you enjoy the unique architecture.

Archeological Museum

Back down Rue de la Liberté toward the waterfront, you’ll see Le Musée d’Archéologie, which holds relics of the Arawak and Carib Indians. These tribes lived on Martinique and other Caribbean islands before Columbus discovered them. The museum itself is discouraging and signs are in French, but some of the displays are engrossing.

Cathédrale Saint-Louis

Another building designed by Henri Picq stands a block north on Rue Schoelcher. Look for the iron framework of the bell tower of La Cathédrale Saint- Louis looming over the center of town. The cathedral is awe-inspiring but simpler than Henri’s library. It’s difficult to say which is the more beautiful.

The entire church was restored in 1982, but officials still deem the bell tower too unstable for visitors. However, you can visit the interior of the church to see the magnificent organ and stained-glass windows.

Sermac Floral Park

If you’ve had enough sightseeing, this is a good time to head out of town or do some shopping. However, if you still want to see more, continue walking east on Rue Schoelcher to Rue Moreau de Jonnes Alexandre. Turn left and pass the Palais de Justice on your right. A couple of blocks farther on, turn right on Rue de République, which will take you to the old Hotel de Ville (city hall) on Rue Victor Severe.

When Rue Victor Severe reaches the river (Rivière Madame), you will be at the public fish market, which sits in front of the Parc Floral Sermac. This complex of buildings and gardens offers visitors a chance to stroll through displays of the islands flowers and geological structures. If you’re not interested in paying the 5FF admission fee required to get into the galleries, just walk through the park (no charge) and take in the activity of the nearby markets.

Marketplace

A covered market, back toward the waterfront between Rue Blenac and Rue Saint-Louis, is actually a large bazaar full of crafts, spices, flowers, beauty products and medicinal herbs. Islanders dressed in colorful outfits vie for your attention and extol the quality of their products. It’s great fun.