Sightseeing in Cartago
In Cartago you’ll find gems of shops, bars, restaurants, art galleries, flower and vegetable markets and little churches. Among point of specific interest, in the center of town, the ruins of the roofless St. Bartholomew Temple (most commonly known as Las Ruinas) dominate the central square, a peaceful garden of bougainvillea and sweet pine trees. First dedicated in 1575, the church was destroyed in that same year by an earthquake. It was rebuilt, and a second severe earthquake destroyed it in 1910; legend claims it was divine punishment for the actions of an amorous priest. People from Cartago took that as an omen and left the church ruins standing. Across the street on Av 1 is La Taberna, a likable tavern with a dance floor and restaurant that does a big evening business. The food’s good too. If you’re looking for a quick bite, walk around the corner of Av 1 and Calle 2 to Friendly’s Soda, where you can try typical Tico food. The town sorely needs a good tourist B&B or boutique hotel.
Cartago’s other famous church is La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles, where, on August 2 each year, thousands of Costa Ricans make a pilgrimage to honor the black-skinned Virgin Mary, La Negrita. The town all but shuts down as pilgrims head to the basilica. Many walk on their knees as they near the church, a sign of humility.
Follow the steps behind the altar down to the Cripta de Piedra to see the rock where Juana first found the statue. The adjoining room contains hundreds of miniature silver trinkets (mostly legs and arms) and all kinds of charms left by faithful parishioners. They signify alleged or wished-for healing miracles performed by the Virgin. The offerings even include trophies from soccer teams that supposedly won their match due to her help. Water bottled from a spring at the site, purported to work miracles, is for sale in surrounding shops. La Señora de Los Angeles is the Patron Saint of Costa Rica.
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