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CHINA | Shanghai, China Travel Guide
Thursday, April 18, 2024
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Shanghai's Old City
Shainghai's Old City
While the colonials were busy reconstructing their homelands on the Bund and in the French Concession in Shanghai, the Chinese lived within a walled city to the south. Shanghai's Old City has a 2,000-year history and was originally a fishing village. In the middle of the 16th century it was walled to defend against Japanese pirates, and these walls remained until 1911. During the colonial era the Old City of Shanghai was perceived as a strange and savage place where few foreigners ventured, until Thomas Cook began leading tours there in 1872.
These days the Old City is very new in parts – all the Ming- and Qing-style buildings in the Yuyuan Bazaar, which surrounds Yu Gardens, have been completely rebuilt or at least heavily restored. When combined with the legion of souvenir shops and hordes of tourists, it gives this part of the Old City a decidedly contrived and Disney feel. Still, it’s a fun place to visit and the central lake, crossed by the Bridge of Nine Turns (impassable to ghosts who can only travel in straight lines…), is very picturesque in a kitsch way – especially as the sun goes down and the curved eaves of the buildings are illuminated.
Halfway along the bridge you’ll reach the famous Huxinting teahouse, while over on the other side of the lake you’ll find Nanxian, a great dumpling restaurant. The City God Temple, in the center of the bazaar, is also worth a quick peek. The temple, which pays tribute to the old city’s resident god, dates from the 15th century and has been restored after a period of neglect. The reason most people come here, though, is to see the acclaimed Yu Gardens. But a stroll through the genuine antiquity and characterful markets of some of the nearby streets, such as Fangbang Zhong Lu, and maybe a trip to Dongtai Antiques Market (just outside the Old City boundary), are also recommended. There are no convenient subway lines for the Old City but it’s not too far to walk down from the Bund or Nanjing Lu; otherwise get a taxi.
Yu Gardens, Yuyuan Bazaar. Despite being one of the most frequented sights in Shanghai, the Yu Gardens make for a pleasant diversion from the bustle of the Old City. First constructed during the Ming dynasty for the governor of Szechuan (Pan Yunduan), these classical gardens contain pavilions, bridges, chambers, towers, ponds, rockeries and white-washed walls capped by fierce dragons. If you happen to be visiting during the Chinese Lantern Festival then you’ll see the gardens beautifully illuminated by 10,000 lanterns.
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