Salvador's Upper City

Salvador was nurtured on churches. The sheer number of them – 166 – reveals the religious fortitude here. They and the forts that dot the city trace and link Salvador’s early history. The churches also illuminate the many architectural styles that were experimented with and developed. You’ll see the influences of the Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassic periods.

Start your stroll in Pelourinho, where ornate spires and towers of scores of churches dominate the skyline.

Although you can explore this area by following your eye, we like to start in the large square Praça de Sé, which is more popularly called Terreiro de Jesus. So large that it once comprised three city blocks, it houses three important churches and several museums. The largest and most important church stands on the west side of the square.

Catedral Basílica

Catedral Basílica was constructed between 1657 and 1672 by Jesuits. It was modeled after a church in Portugal and the marble used on the façade and stone used in the interior walls were brought from there. The high altar is decorated in gold leaf. Don’t miss the center ceiling, which is decorated with paintings of the four evangelists. There is also a huge central medal with the face of Jesus.

Church of the Venerable

Third Order of the Dominicans Just to the north of the cathedral is a small 18th-century Baroque church called San Pedro of the Clerics. It’s worth a peek, but the larger church across the plaza is much more interesting. Igreja São Domingos de Gusmão da Ordem Terceira was completed in 1723. It too was built in Baroque style and is best known for its carved processional saints and other sacred objects. City guides mention that the saints were often hollow and used to transport money between Portugal and Brazil. Note that there are Asian touches here as well. You can walk upstairs to the second floor where a reception room features exquisitely carved furniture.

Old Faculty of Medicine

Three museums are housed in the neo-classical building Antiga Facilidade de Medicinos (Old Faculty of Medicine) adjacent to the Basilíca. The one of most interest is the Museu Afro-Brasileiro (Afro-Brazilian Museum). It has a vast collection of articles that show the development of the Afro-Brazilian culture when the slaves settled in Brazil as free men. Many are of a religious or spiritual nature and include weavings, paintings, pottery and carvings. The photographs are fascinating. A large exhibit dedicated to candomblé explains the meaning and characteristics of each orixá (god) and what role each plays. All the text is in Portuguese, but English-speaking staff often take the time to explain it. Don’t miss the room where 27 carved wood panels portray each orixá and the animal and symbol associated with it. The work was done by Carybé, a Bahian artist.

Among Salvador's other museums in the Upper City are the Memorial de Medicina (Memorial to the Old Faculty of Medicine) and the Museu de Arqueologia e Etnologia (Archeology and Ethnology Museum). Open weekdays, 9 am-5 pm. Small entrance fee.

Ordem Terceira de São Francisco

Look for the wide cobblestone street with a tall cross in the center leading from Terreiro de Jesus. The figure on the cross is São Francisco de Xavier, the patron Saint of Salvador. The plaza at the end of the street, Praça Padre Anchieta houses two “don’t miss” churches. The smaller of the two, Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, was in existence when the Franciscans came to Brazil to stay. Its façade of square gray stones carved to resemble silver altars is in Spanish Baroque style. There are 14 paintings of The Stations of The Cross and a small cloister encircled by blue Portuguese tiles.

Church and Convent of San Francisco

Seemingly not satisfied, the Franciscans decided to build a far bigger and more opulent church. The Igreja de São Francisco and its convento were built from 1708 to 1723. The church, with two towers, is Brazil’s richest and is often called The Gold Church. The façade was completed in 1713, but the allgold interior took years longer to complete. The gold leaf is so minutely detailed that the church itself seems to sparkle. The entrance is marked by panels of blue-and-white glazed Portuguese tiles that depict the birth of Saint Francis. In one panel of gold carvings you’ll see grapevines with birds on them and small boys gathering the grapes. The marble basins were a gift from the Portuguese king. The encircling convent has a beautiful tiled courtyard. Only men are permitted inside. Services are held here and the church is open Mon-Sat, 8 am-5 pm.

Home of Jorge Amado

The square beyond Terreiro de Jesus is Largo do Pelourinho and at #51 you’ll find the house of one of Brazil’s most famous writers, Jorge Amado. Although he never won the Nobel Prize, he was often mentioned. Perhaps it was because he lived a turbulent life. An outspoken Communist, Amado was jailed and saw some of his works burned. He lived in exile in Prague for awhile, but by the 1960s his work started to be appreciated. He had lived in Salvador as a student and started to set his works in Bahia. His most famous work, Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands, was made into a film. The collage of book covers in the ground-floor café shows how many languages his works have been translated into. The photos upstairs trace his life with explanations in Portuguese only. The house is open Mon-Sat, 9 am-6 pm.

Museu da Cidáde

Next door, the Museu da Cidáde is not overly impressive but two exhibits are worth examining. The Carnaval exhibit shows the contrasts between Salvador’s Carnaval celebration and the one in Rio. It uses puppets and costumes to illustrate the differences. Another exhibit shows the orixás (gods) that the slaves brought to Brazil as part of Candomblé. The museum is open Tues-Sat, 10 am-5 pm.

Largo do Pelourinho

Largo do Pelourinho is one of the area’s most interesting stops. More triangular than square, it is at the heart of an enclave of mansions and homes. Many are restored and it’s not hard to imagine them when ladies sat on the balconies to observe the beating and selling of slaves from a discreet distance. Political prisoners were also brutalized on the stocks. The plaza is very attractive today and has several public stages where plays are held and local musicians perform. Locals come to dance as well. Your concierge will have a list of events in the square.

Our Lady of the Rosary of the Blacks

If you haven’t had your fill of churches, stop at N.S. do Rosario dos Pretos, built by and for slaves during the years 1704 to 1796. A creamy yellow building in Baroque style, it has interesting statues depicting the black saints of the Catholic Church. If you attend a service you’ll notice that drums are used, rather than an organ. The church is downhill from Largo Pelourinho on one of the narrow streets called ladeiras. Weekdays, 8 am-5 pm; weekends, 8 am-2 pm.

Carmelite Church and Convent

Follow Rua do Carmo, a ladeira that heads uphill from the lowest point of Largo Pelourinho, and you’ll find yourself at the Convento do Carmo Pousada, which was built in the former church of the same name. The Carmelite Church and Convent were built in 1586 and they continued to function as such until the 1960s, when a religious museum opened in it instead. The buildings needed major renovation and were closed for several years until the Pestana Hotel Group bought the properties. The group recently opened a pousada on the grounds, keeping intact the colonial architecture and other convent features. If you want to stay in Pelourinho this is the place (see Hotels, page 400), but if not you should stop by for a drink and tour. The hotel has also restored the adjacent church, Ordem Terceiro de Carmo and museum. (Since the churches and convent were part of a UNESCO Historic Site, the Pestana Hotel Group was required to renovate all the buildings.) It’s become a 16th-century architectural gem.

The ladeiras between Largo Pelourinho and Terreiro de Jesus often lead to tiny hidden plazas with cafés and shops. Some have music at night. Especially nice are Praça Tereza Batista and Praça de Arte, Cultura e Memoria.