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Exploring Olinda - Indian Chief Travel
BRAZIL  |  Recife, Brazil Travel Guide
Friday, March 29, 2024
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Exploring Olinda

Exploring Olinda

When Duarte Coelho was assigned a captaincy in northeastern Brazil, the area was occupied by vast sugar plantations. He wanted to establish a town to govern from and, while standing atop a hill gazing down on the ocean below, he picked his spot and named it Olinda, meaning “the beautiful.” Perhaps it reminded him of Lisbon, another city built on hills. Construction started in 1535 with the most important buildings erected on hilltops overlooking the sea.

Smaller buildings were built around the lower slopes. The site clearly was not a practical choice, since the location was landlocked, but, using the wealth accumulated by plantation owners, the town prospered. That drew the attention of the Dutch, who invaded Pernambuco in 1630 and soon abandoned and burned Olinda. In its place they created Recife on drained coastal land. By 1654, the Dutch were expelled. Olinda was partly reconstructed, but it never returned to its prominence. Instead of government buildings, magnificent monasteries, convents and churches were built on the hilltops. Carmelites, Franciscans, Benedictines and Jesuits occupied the city heights and filled their buildings with some of the finest Baroque art in colonial Brazil. Because Recife flourished and became the administrative capital of the captaincy, Olinda was virtually ignored. That benign neglect allowed the city to preserve its cultural sites and, in 1937, it was declared an Historic City. It retained its unique design, with narrow homes, treelined gardens and stunning religious buildings surrounded by vegetation. In 1982, its beauty was recognized by UNESCO, which classified it as a World Heritage Site.

The city of Olinda is not a museum. It is a living breathing, if small, city and an impressive one at that. You can easily explore the historic quarter on foot along narrow cobblestone streets that run up and down the hills and offer stunning views of the Atlantic and Recife’s skyline. It’s easy to get caught up in the views, but don’t miss the lovingly restored homes with carved wooden balconies, stucco walls and thick wooden doors. Many are occupied by artists and musicians.

Carmelite Church

Start your day in Praça do Carmo. The church here, N.S. do Carmo, was built in 1588 as the first Carmelite Church in Brazil. Covered with thick moss and with parts of its façade water-logged, it has been undergoing a vast renovation. Don’t miss the imposing ornate jacaranda wood altar at the heart of the church. Look for the statue of Princess Isabel in front of the church. She was responsible for abolishing slavery in 1888 and this tree-filled square is often called Praça da Abolicão (Abolition Square).

São Francisco Convent

Nearby, the Convento de São Francisco is even older. Built in 1577, it was the first Franciscan convent in the country. It is open to the public and has beautiful garden areas. N.S. da Neves chapel, within the convent, has scenes from the life of Jesus depicted in blue Portuguese tiles. The walls are constructed of crushed coral and there are frescoed ceilings.

Leaving São Francisco Convent along Rua Bispo Coutinho, you’ll see an impressive building that is home to Pernambuco’s Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art). The building dates to the 17th century when it was built as an Episcopal Palace. The works of art are not as impressive as those in the churches and convents.

Igreja da Sé

Head uphill and you’ll soon find yourself at this church, which stands in a plaza named Alto da Sé. The church was built in 1537 and has been restored three times in an effort to revive its original ambience. The display of fading photographs show the history of Olinda. This is not Olinda’s most impressive church, but the lure here is the plaza. It was from this scenic spot that Coelho created his city. You will appreciate his decision as you gaze out over the ocean and its reefs, to the skyline of Recife and the pockets of green-leafed trees. Added to this are the red-tile roofs, colorful buildings and church towers of lower Olinda. Take a deep breath and imagine yourself here 400 years ago. Even the bustling cafés, food stalls and shops don’t intrude on the ambience.

Igreja da Misericórdia, on the same plaza, was built in 1540 and restored in 1654. This church is best known for its wood, gold and silver sculptures. It’s a very peaceful spot.

Igreja do Amparo

Continuing in the same direction, you’ll come to Igreja do Amparo in the plaza of the same name. It was built in 1613 and it was also a repository for oil paintings and gold sculptures. Notice the two bell towers on this church. They are an indication that parishioners were wealthy.

Praça do Amparo is a quiet spot to take a break and it stands at the intersection of two of Olinda’s most beautiful streets. Estrada do Bonsuccesso may be the city’s oldest street. The colonial buildings here are painted in red, green, blue and yellow as they were when the city was built. The mansions display Moorish and Portuguese influences. All have balconies, latticed verandahs and graceful arches. Towering windows, known as muxarabis, allow you to peek inside. Rua do Amparo also has narrow, brightly painted colonial buildings but you’ll find cafés, restaurants, art galleries and shops in many of them. It’s the perfect spot for lunch and browsing.

Ribeira Market

Rua do Amparo leads to Mercado da Ribeira, which functioned as a market and a slave auction site. These days it has lovely shops. The imposing building you see was the Olinda Senate House where Bernardo do Viera de Mello started his fight to make Brazil a republic. The street is named in his honor.

Museum of Contemporary Art

A block away is the Contemporary Art Museum, with a small, though impressive, collection. It’s the building that is of most interest. Built in 1772 as the “Antiga Cadeía Eclesiástica,” it was used as a prison during the Inquisition to house those who did not follow the dictates of the Catholic Church.

Mamulengo Puppet Museum

Adjacent to the art museum is this interesting detour. The puppet museum houses over 300 puppets constructed of wood and cloth and dressed in typical attire of people in northeastern Brazil. Shows are based on the area’s folklore. Tues-Fri, 9 am-5 pm; Sat & Sun, 10 am-5 pm.

Basílica de São Bento

Returning to the market, follow Rua São Bento to the Basílica de São Bento. Built in 1582 in Baroque style, it has a magnificent altar that was once on display in NY’s Guggenheim Museum. It is a Benedictine monastery and quite beautiful. This once was home to Brazil’s first law school.

Last updated December 5, 2007
Posted in   Brazil  |  Recife
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