When I first visited Little Dix Bay a number of years ago, there was a photo of a young Mohammed Ali on the lobby wall. His quote, “Hey man, this is paradise”! Ninety-seven guest rooms (including four one-bedroom suites and two villas) follow the curve of a long crescent beach. They blend into the landscape so completely that those arriving by boat do not see any buildings. They are cleverly tucked behind a grove of seagrape trees and coconut palms. The grounds (500 acres) are extraordinary, dotted with towering saman, mahogany and white cedar trees that have tiny white flowers. A veritable army of gardeners tends the grounds. Little Dix Bay was conceived by Laurence Rockefeller and managed by Rockresorts until 1993 when Rosewood Hotels assumed ownership. They set out to revitalize paradise and in many subtle but substantial ways they have done so. Accommodations vary from oceanfront rooms with patios and terraces to the original hexagonal cottages set in pairs behind the beach. Some of these are on stilts. The suites are also arranged in pairs, while the villas are set apart, near the spa. They have two or three bedrooms and full kitchens, as well as private pools. Rooms have been redecorated using lighter woods, bamboos and wickers, pastel shades and tropical fabrics. They are casual yet elegant with accent pieces from the Pacific Rim. Rooms are air-conditioned but ceiling fans remain and are sufficient for all but a few nights. Bathrooms too have been redone to add better lighting and fixtures.There is no pressure to do anything. Lounge chairs, water floats, Sunfish and kayaks are placed along the beach each morning. Snorkel gear must be signed out at the Beach House and you can join the free snorkel trips to nearby reefs, snorkel in the bay or hop a cab and snorkel at The Baths, nearby. You can arrange to water-ski at nearby Pond Bay too. The hotel has a flotilla of Boston Whalers and a crewmember will whisk you to Spring Bay or Savannah Bay (picnic lunch is packed for you) and return at your request. Scuba trips (with Dive BVI) and deep-sea fishing are available at additional cost. There are seven tennis courts (two can be lit at night) and a full pro shop. Two easy-to-follow trails are on property and a handful of jogging paths. Walking through the grounds, you’ll notice that the landscape is not highly manicured but rather seems to be a natural flow of flowers and foliage. This is in keeping with Rockefeller’s intention of fostering an eco-friendly island environment. There are two first-rate amenities for guest use. The fitness center has treadmills, lifecycles, Cybex weight machines and free weights. A personal trainer offers group aerobic, stretching and toning classes as well as private sessions. The spa has 10 individual treatment rooms for massages, facials and scrubs. (Read more about the spa on page 128.) Rosewood has done more than renovate and add amenities. They have changed Little Dix Bay’s philosophy guests are younger, more active and child-friendly. There’s a Children’s Grove (near the Beach House), where exuberant instructors play calypso music, tell tall tales about pirates and set out materials for arts and crafts. There are three restaurants at Little Dix Bay. The Pavilion, four intertwined Polynesian pyramids that face the sea, serves buffet breakfasts and lunches. Candlelit dinners are more formal with a continental menu. The Sugar Mill is open air and serves dinner and Sunday brunch. The menu is West Indian. The Beach House Grill is adjacent to the resort dock and only a few steps from the beach. Light lunches are served here and at night fresh grilled seafood including Anegada lobster and steaks are menu highlights. Tiki torches tucked into the sand create a romantic glow. (More on the restaurants in Hotel Dining). The final ingredient is the most important, for it makes all the others work. The staff, most of whom have worked here for many years, is exceptional. Warm, friendly and helpful, they make you feel at home. If this isn’t paradise, it’s close.