Around the Northern Coast, from Fort-de-France to Le Prêcheur

Schoelcher

Saint-Pierre is on every tourist’s itinerary – and rightly so – but Martinique’s northern coast has numerous interesting sites that can be visited in a day. Start in Schoelcher, a residential suburb north of Fort-de-France. Notice the dramatic statue of Victor Schoelcher, for whom the town was named, on the square in front of the Palace of Justice. It shows the Frenchman breaking a slave’s chains and declaring that slavery will never again endure on French ground.

Case-Pilote

Take N2 to Case-Pilote, among the oldest villages on the island, where you should drive by Notre-Damede-l’Assomption (turn toward the water at the gas station), one of Martinique’s oldest churches. It’s considered an important historical monument. If you’re intrigued by architecture, the stone façade and Baroque style will be of interest.

Don’t miss the view from Panorama Verrier above the fishing village of Bellefontaine. It’s not easy to find or reach, but is well worth the trouble. One route is a narrow, steep road from the center of town – a right turn before you reach D20. The viewpoint is three miles ahead on the left. An alternate route is off D63 before you enter Bellefontaine. About 300 feet after you turn right on D63, take a left where a partially hidden sign points the way to Verrier. Three miles farther, on a brutally bumpy road, you will be rewarded by a fabulous panoramic view of the Caribbean and Mont Pelée.

Morne-Vert

Another great detour with a fabulous view is the town of Morne-Vert. Take D20 off N2 just before the town of Carbet. The town, which is called la petite Suisse or little Switzerland, sits about 1,400 feet up, on the way to the Pitons du Carbet.

You’ll be surprised by the cool, dry, refreshing air up here – and awed by the abundance of thick, green foliage growing on the mountain. It’s a peaceful spot, and you can wander about the countryside or the little village church and cemetery without swatting insects or breaking a sweat.

Le Carbet

Le Carbet deserves a visit for several reasons, depending on your interests. Historians think Columbus landed here on the gray-sand beach on June 15, 1502. Remember that he was hesitant to set foot on the island at all because of reports of Amazon women and fierce, flesh-eating savages. More than a hundred years later, Pierre Bélain d’Esnambuc arrived here from France to set up the first colony. Then, in 1887, Paul Gauguin set up a studio in the village and painted what are now known as scenes from his Antilles period.

The small but interesting Musée Paul Gauguin is north of town, across from Turin Beach. It displays random memorabilia related to the artist’s time on Martinique. Unfortunately, none of his original paintings is shown, but there are several reproductions. One of the most interesting exhibits is a collection of letters to his wife, whom he abandoned along with his five kids, where he whines about his own poor health and the ills of civilization.

Saint-Pierre

In Saint-Pierre, climb aboard the Cyparis Express mini-train for an hour-long tour of the martyred city. Narration is in French.

You’ll be fascinated by the ruins of the church, theater, port and jail cell where Cyparis, the only survivor, was held prisoner during the eruption. Afterwards, you can wander about on your own to areas that are most interesting.

After your train ride, begin your walking tour of Saint-Pierre at the Musée Vulcanologique, volcano museum, to get an idea what the city was like before and after the vast devastation that took place on May 8, 1902. You’ll see petrified food; glass objects fused together by melting heat; deformed household items; and old photographs of the city when it was known as “Little Paris of the West Indies.”

Musée Vulcanologique was founded by American scientist Franck A Perret in 1932. It’s near the tourist information office on Rue Victor Hugo.

Now take a walk among the ruins and through the new town that’s been built up around them – sometimes using the old walls in new construction. Don’t miss the Ancien Théatre, or Old Theater, diagonally across the street from the museum. The double staircase, lobby, stage and several walls survived the eruption and give an idea of the grandeur that once existed. The theater was built in 1786 as a small-scale version of a magnificent theater in Bordeaux and could seat 800 people on three levels. The statue at the top of the stairs is one you may recognize. Called Saint-Pierre Rising from Its Ashes, it depicts a barebreasted nymph with flowing hair pushing herself halfway up from a face-down, prone position. Step back and look at it from the side with innocentlooking Mont Pelée in the background.

At the side of the theater, you’ll find the famous jail cell. It’s easy to see how Cyparis was saved by the thick walls that were built in 1660.

Farther north on Rue Victor Hugo, you’ll cross the Pont de la Roxelane, a stone bridge built over the river in 1766. Straight ahead are the ruins of the Quartier du Fort. Turn right on the road that runs along the river and you will come to monte au ciel, the stairway to heaven. This steep roadway stairsteps up the hill with a stone gutter running down the center.

The history museum, Le Musée Historique, on Rue Victor Hugo, south of the theater ruins, is an interesting stop. It offers more details on Saint-Pierre before and after the eruption.

Go back toward the waterfront and turn north on Rue des Chiens, which leads to Eglise du Fort. The grassed-over remains of the stone church that was built to replace the original wooden structure in 1660 are dramatic. Many parishioners were in the church celebrating the mass of Ascension Day when the eruption occurred.

Leave the church and follow Rue Schoelcher until it becomes Allée Pécoul and ends at Château Depaz on the Pécoul plantations. This is one of the oldest homes on the island and was rebuilt by Victor Depaz after the eruption in 1902. At the time of the disaster, Depaz was studying in France and was the only member of his family to survive. You can visit the estate, which is also a rum distillery.

Chest of the Dead

When you leave Saint-Pierre, take the scenic drive along the coast on D10. About three miles from town, you come to cliffs known as Tombeau des Caraïbes (Carib Tomb), or Le Coffre à Morts (Chest of the Dead). Legend says that a band of Caribs who were stalked and hassled into submission by French colonists threw themselves off the cliffs to avoid being captured or suffering a shameful defeat.

Habitation Céron

Drive through the town of Le Prêcheur, which is named for the lava formation that resembles a preacher. Then, head farther north past spectacular black-sand beaches to Habitation Céron. In 1658, the plantation was a large sugar factory run by a hydraulic wheel. It was owned by Leroux Chapelle de Sainte Croix, captain of the Prêcheur militia. Today, it is a well-preserved and interesting tour through history. From the parking lot, you pass through an area of old slave shacks that are now used as a restaurant, boutique and ticket office. You can then actually walk through the various levels of sugarcane production by visiting the mill, the juice conveyor, a 17th-century furnace that provided heat for the boiling room, and the curing house. A crayfish farm and abundant gardens now produce fresh goods for the riverside restaurant, and the estate grounds are home to numerous birds, colorful lizards and a rare, beautiful, harmless spider called matoutou.