Exploring the Islands
Often referred to as the flat half, Grande-Terre is actually a separate island quite distinct from its western mate, Basse-Terre. The Rivière-Salée separates Grande from Basse, and east of this narrow strip of water, the beach-fringed terrain is almost level.
Pointe-à-Pitre is the principal city and commercial hub of Guadeloupe, and the natural reference point for all other locations on the island. It sits snugly in the niche between Grande and Basse in the watery Petit Cul-de-Sac Marin just south of Rivière-Salée. Cruise ships dock at its harbor, and the international airport is two miles from the city limits. Of all the picturesque cities on the island, it is the most like a modern port town on the French Riviera.
From Pointe-à-Pitre, Grande-Terre sprawls east over more than 218 square miles like a ragged, palm-lined triangle. An excellent system of national highways (Routes Nationales) connects the bustling central port with tranquil colonial villages, tropical countryside and shady beaches.
Most of Grande-Terre’s resorts are located along the southern coast between Gosier and Saint-François. The eastern tip, Pointe des Châteaux, is a national park marked by a wooden cross sitting high on a hill above the rugged shore known as land’s end. From here, the island curves north where the rough Atlantic beats against limestone cliffs and shockingly beautiful beaches – a surfer’s paradise.
Midway up the eastern coast, the national highway dwindles to narrower roads and the landscape turns to sugarcane fields and barren, rocky ridges with spectacular ocean views. Turning back down the leeward coast from the northernmost Pointe de la Grande Vigie, the shore is lined with fine beaches and small towns.
Once you cross over the Rivière Salée from Grande- Terre to Basse-Terre, you begin an entirely different vacation. La Soufrière, the gorgeous big-mama volcano that gave birth to the rocky chain of mountains that form the western half of Guadeloupe, towers over the island, shrouded in clouds and mist, tempting visitors to explore her majestic realm.
Most of the island is protected by the Parc National de la Guadeloupe, which includes miles of trails through a thick rain forest. A national highway circles Basse along the coast, allowing easy access to both the lush east side and the arid west rim, while a transmountain road cuts across the middle through the national park itself. This trans-mountain road, route de la traversée, is also known as la route des Mamelles because it climbs the splendid twin peaks known as les deux mamelles (two breasts).
The city of Basse-Terre, on the southwestern coast, is the capital and administrative hub of Guadeloupe. It sits on a hill overlooking open sea and is prettier and calmer than Pointe-à-Pitre, the island’s commercial center.
Most of the wealthiest residents live inland, up the hillside, in the chic town of Saint Claude. Nearby, the little village of Matouba serves as the starting point for the Trace Victor Hugues, which leads into the Parc National.
North of Basse-Terre City, the national highway connects a string of beach towns along the Côte-Sous-le- Vent, where Jacques Cousteau developed an underwater reserve. Here, in this diving paradise at the foot of nationally protected mountains covered by rain forest, a plethora of tour operators offers every opportunity to explore both ocean and land.
You can drive entirely around either Basse-Terre or Grande-Terre in one long day – but, don’t. If you have limited time, pick one of the tours below or hire a guide to show you the sites that interest you most. Visitors on a looser schedule can tackle the suggested itineraries one at a time for a thorough tour of all the attractions.
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