It seems strange at first to find a luxurious resort that caters to the refined tastes of moneyed people on St. John, which takes pride in its simplicity and uncommercial atmosphere. Yet, Caneel fits into its surroundings and its owners have gone to great pains to preserve the natural beauty of the island. No tall buildings, no crystal chandeliers. Luxury definitely. But no opulence. Caneel’s elegance lies in its unaffected good taste. In 1955, Laurence Rockefeller purchased a small fishing resort which had existed on St. John since the 1930s. He donated it to the Jackson Hole Preserve, a non-profit conservation organization started by the Rockefeller family. Jackson Hole bought land on the island which they then donated to the Federal Government to create a National Park. Caneel’s 170 acres, encompassing seven beaches, all within the Park, are still owned by Jackson Hole. Management of the hotel was taken over by Rosewood Hotels and Resorts in 1993, which has renovated the guest rooms and upgraded the facilities without changing the essential serenity. The 166 guest rooms are prudently scattered throughout the property, some just a few steps from a beach and others set atop hilly knolls overlooking the bay. The attached buildings, housing up to a dozen bedrooms, are enhanced by the profusion of sea grape, hibiscus, bougainvilleas, flamboyants and expertly manicured lawns. Feel free to flop into one of the hammocks stretched between two flowering tropical trees. Since the hotel was built in stages, the accommodations are not identical. Those rooms directly on a beach are the most expensive, while those on the hill near the sugar mill or tennis courts are less pricey. All rooms have private terraces or patios and are refurnished with attractive rattan furniture and pastel shades on the walls and bedspreads. Bathrooms (only a few have tubs) have modern fixtures, good mirrors and lots of toiletries. Rooms are now air-conditioned – something that caused grumbling by “regulars,” but they have managed to keep out TVs and telephones. There are ceiling fans. Guests return annually, often reserving their favorite room upon departure. It is heavily booked in the high season, and February is sold out by the previous summer. There has been a relaxation of several of Caneel Bay’s “traditions” under Rosewood. Children are now permitted year-round and that has encouraged young guests. There is even an organized children’s program for children aged five to 13 and a baby-sitting service for younger children. There is an additional fee for these services. Also relaxed is the dress code. Men are asked to wear collared shirts and closed footwear at both the Equator and Turtle Bay Estate Restaurants. But Bermuda-length shorts in addition to long pants are now permitted at the Equator. Jackets, which were required at Turtle Bay, are now requested. Caneel operates on the European plan, but you can select a modified or full American eating plan. Several of Caneel’s special packages include food in the rate. You can dine in one of three dining rooms. The informal Beach Terrace in the main building is open to the bay. All three meals are served here and sumptuous buffets are the bill of fare for lunch and dinner. The adjoining cocktail lounge is famous for its thick piña coladas – the best I’ve ever tasted. Atop a hill is the picturesque Equator, in a flower-covered restored sugar mill. It serves grilled meats and fish as well as tropical fare. The most elegant, formal service is at Turtle Bay Estate House, a romantic plantation-style mansion. Afternoon tea and cocktails are served in the adjoining living room. Adjacent to the Beach Terrace, the Reading Room is furnished with comfortable couches, board games and an honor library. You can sip a cocktail and listen to a steel band or calypso group after dinner. There are 11 tennis courts, with a pro and a pro shop. Court time is free. Use of watersports equipment, including snorkel gear, windsurfers, small sailboats and rafts, is complimentary. The activity desk will arrange scuba trips, sightseeing tours and car rentals. You can walk to Cinnamon Bay or hop a Surrey taxi to explore St. John on your own. A shuttle bus operates on the property from 6:45 am to 11:15 pm. While prices are high, they include many activities. Off-season rates are far less than those in the high season and there are money-saving package tours. Did you know? Over one thousand couples spend their honeymoons at Caneel Bay each year. Check in at the Caneel desk at Cyril E. King Airport in St. Thomas, where a cab will whisk you to the Caneel ferry.