The Princes' Islands

In the searing heat of summer when the packed metropolis is dusty and unbearable, head south of the city by ferry to a group of islands in the Sea of Marmara called the Princes’ Islands.

The islands earned their name because they were the place of exile for disgraced princes during the Byzantine era. It must have been a tranquil existence because until the last century the islands were sparsely inhabited and rarely visited. Life for the princes was far easier than in prisons on the Turkish mainland.

The islands are now fashionable resorts where upmarket locals go to sunbathe and picnic. The surrounding wat ers are suitable for swimming, but not the country’s cleanest. On the upside, there are smart pavilions and well-arranged gardens with an array of acacia, redbud, oleander, jasmine, honeysuckle and carnations.

Cars and motorcycles are banned here; the only way to travel around is by bicycle, donkey or horse-drawn carriage. It is a wonderful way to explore.

Only four of the nine islands can be visited: Kinaliada; Burgazada; Heybeliada and Büyükada. All are busy at weekends in the summer and are much more pleasant in spring and autumn or even midweek during the summer. Remember to book a hotel room in advance if you want to stay the night.

Kinaliada, also known as Henna Island because of its red cliffs, has a lovely pebble beach perfect for sun worshipers. It is the most developed of the islands and the busiest because of its proximity to the mainland. You can visit the ruins of Hristos monastery, the only one of three monasteries once here that is still standing.

The second of the islands is Burgazada, a mountainous land with good footpaths to tempt hikers. There are also plenty of watersports activities to try after you have hiked through pine forests to reach the beach.

Heybeliada is the second-largest of the islands and it is where the Turkish naval academy is based. The island was exploited in the 19th century when a rich copper mine was found. The mine was later closed down and was left as a glorious retreat with wooden mansions and forests.

The largest of the Princes Islands is Büyükada, where elaborate villas stand alongside excellent seafood restaurants and hotels. The ferry arrives at an art nouveau pier where you can start a tour by horse-drawn carriage. A visit to the Monastery of St. George is recommended for energetic walkers who can climb the 200-m/650-foot-hill. Also, Hotel Splendid, like the Pera Palas, is a tourist attraction in itself, a remnant of bygone days of luxury.

Sile and Agva

Sile (70 km/43 miles from Istanbul) has long sandy beaches, overlooked by the remains of a Genoese Castle. The town sits on a cliff next to a black-and-white striped lighthouse. Visitors can idle away time in one of the restaurants overlooking the sea. To reach Sile by car, follow the Umraniye-Sile highway through Üsküdar northeast towards the Black Sea coast.

Agva, 100 km/62 miles from Istanbul on the banks of a river, is surrounded by forests and parks, making it ideal for a camping holiday. Kerpe, Kefken and Karasu are three quaint fishing villages east of Agva. Agva receives a constant stream of visitors who are attracted by its good restaurants and clear water. To visit Agva, follow the directions for Sile; Agva is about 30 km/19 miles farther along the coast road.