Beyoglu
In the 19th century, Beyglu was a glamorous place to live and work. It was full of foreign diplomats and wealthy merchants, whose mansions still line the Bosphorus and stretch up the hill into the area known as Pera. The Grand Rue de Pera rivaled Paris with its exclusive boutiques, restaurants and parties galore. It was renamed Istiklal Caddesi at the start of the Republican era and fell into a shabby, bohemian state. Diplomats were replaced by artists, particularly in Asmalimescit, and you can spend an afternoon wandering around the many artists’ studios.
The district has enjoyed a cultural and architectural revival with boutiques, cafés and nightclubs opening around Istiklal Caddesi. Luckily, the bookstores and movie theaters have not been pushed out. At night, it seems the whole of Istanbul is strolling down this pedestrian street and the beat of the city is contained here.
To the right of Istiklal Caddesi is the Cicek Pasaji, or Flower Passage, a covered courtyard that retains its original buzzing atmosphere. Turks and tourists alike meet here over drinks and mezes to watch the world go by. Plan to eat late, when the locals go to dinner. Another must-see venue is the nearby Pera Palas Hotel built to accommodate guests from the Orient Express, which traveled to Istanbul from Paris. Guests were transported from the train to the hotel in Sedan chairs. The hotel’s prestigious guest list also included Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Atatürk. The founder of the Turkish Republic’s room, number 101, is preserved as a museum.
Along the same street is the Pera Museum. The museum has a collection of oriental paintings alongside tiles and ceramics from Kütahya. There are also temporary exhibitions of world art and photography.
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