Walking Tour: Zona 1

Zona 1 is the city’s historical section and it has the most attractions. It also has a red-light district right beside the attractions and this area should be avoided, especially after dark. Most of the city’s cheap and midrange hotels are in Zona 1. The best day to visit is Sunday, when the central plaza is full of families who come to enjoy all the action.

Plaza Mayor de la Constitución, 5a and 7a Avenida between 6a and 8a Calle. This plaza is the heart of the city and was one of the first places built in 1776. A large fountain stands in the middle of the plaza. Surrounding the park are other important historical monuments, such as the National Library (Biblioteca Nacional) and the Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana). Plaza Mayor is also known as Plaza of the Arms (Plaza de Armas), one of its original names. On Sunday the plaza is filled with musicians, stalls selling crafts and small comedores (eateries).

Palacio Nacional, north side of Plaza Mayor, 6 Calle between Avenidas 6 and 7. This is the former residence of General Jorge Ubico. It was built while he was in office between 1936 and 1943 and now houses the executive branch of the government. It is a rather eclectic blend of Renaissance, neoclassical and baroque styles using concrete, brick and granite. Many of Guatemala’s foremost artists decorated the building and it is considered a museum because of their contribution. The 4,400-lb (2,000-kg) Bohemian-crystal chandelier should not be missed. On the second floor the reception room (Salas de Recepion) has a beautiful stained-glass window telling the story of Guatemala. Also look for Kilometer Zero (kilometro cero), the exact center of the country. Admission is free. Open 9 am to 5:30 pm, Monday to Friday, 8 am to 3 pm on weekends.

Catedral Metropolitana, west of Main Plaza, 7 Avenida 6 and 8 Calle, 502/232-7621. Also know as El Sagrario (The Most Sacred), this church is one of the few remaining 16th-century buildings in Guatemala City. There isn’t much to see in this short, squat structure. Construction on the building was started in 1776 and finished in 1868. During the 1917 earthquake the baroque façade came crashing down and the cracked bell tower fell onto the altar below. The bell has been removed, but little else has been restored. Inside is the Virgin of Perpetual Help (Virgén del Perpetuo Socorro), Guatemala’s oldest Christian image, which was brought over in 1522 by Hernan Cortes. Carved on the columns outside are the names of those killed during the civil war – a poignant reminder of the lives lost. The church is open daily. No admission fee.

Mercado Central, behind Palacio Nacional, 8 Avenida. The central market is one big hunk of concrete designed in reaction to the 1976 earthquake. It’s the place to shop for handicrafts and you’ll find goods from every region in the country. Hundreds of tiny booths sell everything from ceramics, sculptures and wooden masks to statues and leather goods – all at very low prices. If you can stand the crush of people, you can find some real bargains here. Beware of pickpockets in this market! Open 7 am to 6 pm, Monday to Saturday.

Pasaje Aycinena, 9 and 10 Calle between Avenidas 6 and 7. This cobblestone passageway used to link the houses on both sides of the street. All that is left is an arch with the name carved into the stone. The ground floors have been converted into shops and boutiques.

Palacio de Correos (Postal Palace), 7 Avenida and 12 Calle,  502/232- 6101. This is a good example of the nationalistic colonial style created in Guatemala during the late 1930s. Started in 1937 and completed in 1940, the palace has two main buildings connected by an arched pedestrian walkway. The exterior walls are covered with national symbols in murals created by local artists. In 1981, the palace was declared a national monument and it now serves as home to the National Department of Postal Services (Dirección General de Correos y Telégrafos de Guatemala). Open 8:30am-5:30pm, Monday-Friday; 9 am-1 pm, Saturday. No admission.

Palacio de la Policía Nacional (Palace of the National Police), 6 Avenida 13-71,   502/232-0221. During the 1930s, Guatemala endured General Ubico, a dictator who believed he was the reincarnation of Napoleon. We have him to thank for this outlandish building that resembles a medieval castle complete with battlements. It’s too hideous to be missed and makes a perfect headquarters for the Guatemalan police. Open daily.

Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes (Our Lady of Mercy), 5 Calle 11-67,   502/232-0631. Many of the images in this church were transported from Antigua when the capital was moved, and the building itself has survived numerous earthquakes. It features an extensive collection of baroque-style altarpieces, a large collection of colonial-era art and the second-largest organ in the country. The church was originally built by the Merced Order, but was taken over by the Jesuits in 1829. Outside, a stone façade is adorned with Greek columns and decorative scrolls. Open daily from 6 am until 6 pm. No admission.

Iglesia y Convento de Belén (Church and Convent of Belén), 10 Avenida y 13. At one time, this church and convent stretched for many city blocks. Brother Pedro San José de Betancourt of the Bethlehem Order built the baroque church and convent in 1776 and it housed many carved images of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. In 1813, pro-independence meetings were permitted to take place in the church and, as a result, President Barrios closed the convent and church and appropriated the land. All that remains is the small church. Today, the church has reopened and the convent has been converted to a girls’ school. Open 6 am to 7 pm. Free admission.

Nuestra Señora de Candelaria (Our Lady of Candelaria), 13 Avenida 1-12,   502/253-6376. This beautiful little church took a long time to complete. Started in 1784 using salvage from a church in Antigua, it wasn’t finished until 1867. Inside is the famous image of Jésus Nazareno de la Candelaria, brought from Antigua. In 1976, the church suffered severe earthquake damage and it has recently been restored.

Iglesia San Francisco, 6 Avenida y 13 Calle,   502/232-3625. Franciscan architects designed this baroque church in 1800 and completed the building in 1829. It’s built in the shape of a crucifix with an altar 288 feet (88 meters) high and 39 feet (12 meters) wide in the center. Behind it are carved wooden statues of Jesus and one of the Immaculate Conception donated by King Carlos V of Spain. Open daily from 7 am until 5 pm.

San Miguel Capuchinas (St. Michael of the Capuchins), 10 Calle y 10 Avenida,   502/238-2126. This is one of the oldest surviving churches in the capital, inaugurated on August 7th, 1789. It has survived all the earthquakes fairly intact. It features a Mudejar-style roof, the first architectural style of the city (it was later abandoned for a more European look). Inside are several altarpieces with baroque paintings and carvings. Open 9 am to 10 pm daily, offering mass and confession.

Nuestra Señora del Rosario/Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Our Lady of the Rosary/St. Dominic of Guzmán), 12 Avenida 10-09,   502/232- 4942. This is one of the most famous churches in Guatemala. It was built by the Dominicans in 1778 when they moved their order here from Antigua. The building was completed in 1804 and has many valuable pieces of colonial art. Unfortunately, it was severely damaged in 1917 and has been entirely rebuilt. Today it still contains one of the best collections of Dominican colonial art. Open daily, 6:30 am until 5 pm.

Torreón de las Baterias (Tower of the Battery), 24 Calle 3-81, Interior del Centro Cultural Miguel Angel Asturias,   502/253-5286. These are the remains of the San José fort which started as an artillery unit in 1876. The building was abandoned after the 1917 earthquake, when it was badly damaged. In 1994, during an uprising against the government, the fort was destroyed and all that remains is the main tower. For years, this section was used for various functions, including a circus and boxing ring. It was finally given to the Ministry of Defense, which turned the tower into the Heraldic and Military Arms Museum of Guatemala (Museo Heraldico y de Armas del Ejército de Guatemala). The museum has a collection of military objects and exhibits. Open 10 am to 5pm daily. Admission is Q5 for adults, Q2 for children.

Museo de Historiá, 9 Calle 9-70,   502/253-6149. This historical library and museum opened in 1974. It has a permanent collection of furniture and official documents that date back to 1821. The museum also offers ongoing cultural displays that change according to the seasons. A reference library is also open to the public. Museum is open 9 amto 5 pm, Monday to Friday. Admission is free.

Cerro del Carmen (Carmen Hill), end of 12 Avenida. At the top of this hill is a hermitage dating from 1620, donated to the city by the barefooted Carmelite congregation. Inside is a silver embossed image of the Virgén del Carmen. The view from here is quite lovely and many local families come here to enjoy a picnic. Don’t come alone or at night.