The Pantanal
The Pantanal: An Overview
The Pantanal is one of Brazil’s, if not the world’s, most spectacular regions. This long flood plain covers about 140,000 square miles, extending between two rivers in the Paraguay River Basin.
Formed by the remains of an ancient in-land sea called Xaraes, the Pantanal is the bottom of a bowl with mountains on all sides. When it rains, the water runs down the mountains onto the Pantanal and forms the Paraguay River.
The Pantanal has been declared a World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO.
The Pantanal Orientation
The Pantanal Orientation
The Pantanal is roughly divided into two parts, North and South. There are only small ecological differences between the two, the main distinction being the gateway towns. Cuiabá, capital of the state of Mato Grosso, is the northern gateway, while Campo Grande, capital of Mato Grosso do Sul, is the southern one. Neither town is itself a destination. In the 1970s, the government decided to build a road connecting the two towns, which are 400 miles apart. Fortunately, it was never completed for it would certainly have upset the eco-system. But a start was made and so today we have the Transpantaneirá, a bare-earth road, studded with log bridges, that has ironically become a prime wildlife-viewing area. You can see flocks of macaws, herons, deer, capybaras, egrets, storks, caimans and monkeys simply wandering along the road. The Pantanal is home to 650 species of birds, 80 mammals and over 50 reptiles, including giant anacondas.
Wildlife in The Pantanal
Wildlife in The Pantanal
The entire Pantanal area is regularly flooded by the river, causing saline puddles and bogs to form (hence the name, which means “marshland”). Scattered through the region are cordilheiras (small hills) onto which all the wildlife of the region crowd at flood time. This creates the extraordinary sight of jaguars, caimans, capybaras and cattle cohabiting somewhat harmoniously, with adversity bringing détente, The plain has small areas of savannah and even desert and it is that environment that creates a lush, watery paradise for flora and fauna, fish, waterbirds and mammals.
The Pantanal Seasons
The Pantanal Seasons
It’s a fisherman’s dream from November through March when the plain is flooded and millions of birds are attracted to the area. When the waters recede (starting in April) the land dries up and animals gather near the water holes. In the dry season, much of the land is used by cattle ranching families who’ve been here for generations. Some of the ranches (fazendas) have accommodations for tourists so you can see the wildlife and return to air-conditioned comfort, a swimming pool and good food. Tour operators in the area work with several fazendas. The perennial floods, which often destroy cattle and require the evacuation of entire towns, are the source of the area’s great fertility. The floods keep the fish abundant and prevent the larger animals and birds from migrating because they never have to worry about their next meal.
Touring The Pantanal
Touring The Pantanal
Unlike the jungle of the Amazon, which has more diversity but is enclosed in an impenetrable cover of trees, the Pantanal allows for easy wildlife sightings. Because of the Pantanal’s relative isolation, access by way of independent travel is quite difficult and you should consider taking a packaged tour. Thankfully, as tourism to the area has increased, so have the touring options. You’ll need a minimum of three days and two nights to see the wildlife. Keep in mind that animals such as jaguars, pumas, capybaras and tarantulas are seen only at night. If you want to go trekking or rafting, add a day or two to your trip. If you include rafting or canoeing on one of the area’s small rivers, you might see the huge river otters and monkeys for which the Pantanal is known. Your guide will take you to the best viewing areas. Most excursions are by four-wheel-drive cars, but you can also travel on horseback. First-rate birding, trekking, canoeing, truck photo-safaris and night tours are led by multi-lingual naturalist guides. All operators work with a variety of fazendas (cattle ranches with accommodations) and pousadas.
Cuiabá
Cuiabá
Cuiabá is the best kickoff point for visiting the northern Pantanal, but it is not a destination itself. However, many travel arrangements dictate that you spend part of a day here before leaving for your pousada or fazenda (ranch) or upon your return.
The two main streets, Av. Getúlio Vargas and Av. Isaac Póvoas, are two blocks apart.On and between them are most of the town’s hotels and restaurants. Another key street is CPA or Av. Rubens de Mendonça, which also has restaurants and night spots.
Cuiabá does have several museums that are worth a peek. The Rondon Museum, also known as the Museu do Índio, has an interesting collection of weapons and instruments used by local Indians. This museum is two miles out of town on the grounds of the University of Mato Grosso.
The Museum of Sacred Art is located in the Church of NS do Bom Despacho in Praça do Seminário.
If you are interested in local handicrafts, make a stop at Artindia on Rua Pedro Celestino. It is run by FUNAI, the Brazilian Agency for Indians. Another shop that is fun to browse is Casa do Artesão that has works of art and crafts by local artists.
Chapada dos Guimaraes
Chapada dos Guimaraes
The town and national park of Chapada dos Guimaraes are 40 miles north of Cuiabá. As you drive out of town, you’ll start to see beautiful canyons and towering bright red rock formations much like those near Sedona, Arizona. Some rise to over 3,000 feet above the flatlands. Make your first stop the Portno do Inferno (Gate of Hell) Overlook. The chasm below was created by the Cuiabá River’s erosion of the mesa. The park was created in 1989 and the town is within the park. This area is much drier than the Pantanal, but its numerous small rivers create waterfalls and from nearby overlooks you’ll see lush tropical vegetation where the falls empty into the canyons below. The most prominent waterfall, Véu de Noiva (Bridal Veil) drops some 200 feet in a thin spindle of white spray. It is just a short walk from the park’s visitor center. There are four other falls in the park as well as scores of hiking trails. They are easy to find, but are not signed. Parking lots are located at the head of each trail. Five miles east of town, the Mirante da Geodesia trail leads to the geodesic center of Brazil. The overlook has great views of the mesa and on a clear day you can see as far as Cuiabá.
Campo Grande and Bonito
Campo Grande
Campo Grande became the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul in 1978 when this southern area separated from the state of Mato Grosso. Campo Grande is not a destination itself but, since the area’s airport is here, it is the best kick-off point for visits to wildlifeviewing areas and the watersports action of Bonito to the south.
The Southern Pantanal
The Southern Pantanal
Miranda, a town 128 miles west of Campo Grande, is where most tour operators settle their guests. There are lots of pousadas and fazendas in the area and the lush wetlands around Rio Miranda house lots of wildlife, notably the elusive jaguar. The highlights of a stay here are many, but a photo safari – called a focagem – is tops. This nighttime excursion is on pick-up trucks outfitted with powerful lights that stun animals for a few minutes so you can take a good look and, hopefully, a great photo.
Bonito
Bonito
Although it will add about 200 miles onto your trip from Campo Grande to Miranda, if you have some time and enjoy watersports, consider a detour to Bonito, a town whose name means “beautiful.” It certainly is that. Arguably in the middle of nowhere (as are Campo Grande and Miranda), Bonito has become a popular eco-resort. Visitors to date have been Brazilians and foreigners whose belongings fit into a hefty backpack. But recently a spate of upscale resorts and pousadas have opened and they are drawing a more upscale crowd. People come here not to see Bonito but to splash about in the rivers and streams that rise from the bedrock with incredibly clear waters. Some move quickly enough to make for great rafting and canoeing, while others are slow enough to allow snorkelers to join schools of colorful fish. Rafters on Rio Formoso will see lots of birds and hear the chatter of the rather large Nail monkeys that live in the adjacent forest. The trip ends at Priest’s Island, which has lovely waterfalls. There are caves to explore as well.